SS is going to crown Le Bernardin the best restaurant in New York, guaranteeing himself a permanent seat at the big boys’ food table. Cookbook 2013? Aspen F&W 2014? Perhaps. Sifton’ll soon be busy with the new job, but at least he won’t ever have to waste time picking up the check again. Of course, he could add the Thomas Keller empire to his free eats passport–Boulud, Meyer, Batali, Colicchio, etc.–with a Per Se review instead, but that would mean he had completely sold out…Oh.