I hadn’t been to Switzerland in a while, so last week I decided to go to Siberia, in other words, 24th and 10th, in Chelsea. Over in those nether reaches of Western Manhattan I found the best Swiss wine selection in the City and some of its best Swiss food. Better still, I didn’t feel like a third-class colonial subaltern beaten senseless by European currency exchange rates.
I also found further hope that the Children of Danny (Meyer) will keep on going out to spread the word. Having thoroughly enjoyed such Meyer-inspired restaurants as Hearth and Spigolo at the opposite Manhattan antipodes of Yorkville and the East Village, I was pleased to see the magic in effect in Chelsea as well. Of course, it helps that Chef Ralf Kuettel’s wife, Juliette Pope, is close to the source: She’s the reigning beverage genius at Gramercy Tavern.
Below are the high and lowlights of a recent meal at Trestle:
1) Pizokle: Fun to say, delicious to eat. If St. Bernards switched out their little barrels of booze for a hot bowl of Pizokle, the slopes would be safe at any temp. This cheesy spaetzle-like dish is super-rich, super-pungent and just about perfect this time of year.
2) Budget Booze Cruise: Adventure, value and focus are everywhere on the wine and spirits list, even if a red Rhône was served closer to mulling temp than might be advisable for anyone not seated right in the gulfstream path by the front door. After dinner drinks are fun—and intentionally warming—especially, the bourbons.
3) The Rarest of Birds, Perfect Roast Chicken: Textbook perfection and great control of temp, moisture and texture made this afterthought a standout. Crystalline consomme was a lovely little tour de force of technique. This dish, just as Trestle does it, should be on all the culinary schools’ exit exams.
4) Pork Crépinette: Everyone talks it up. Everyone’s right. This cabbage wrapped pig patty is as tasty as it is ugly. Easy to share, if you’re a generous sort. Easy to scarf if you’re not.
5) Glutton’s Salad: At this temple to all things adipose, even the greens are fatty in name if not in nature. Butter lettuce with buttermilk dressing and bacon chunks makes for a great closer to a meal. Good for the soul, bad for the arteries. Skip the desserts and grab a warming drink at the bar before heading home. It’s a long slog to the subway and there’s nary a St. Bernard to save you if you slip.
Gray and Grizzled Food Fan 