With a nod to Gramercy Tavern, the Meyer inspired Hearth is producing some of the most compelling dining in the City. It’s not the food, wine list or service alone, but the power trio combination of the three, like Rush before they got old.
1) Tom Colicchio in the kitchen: Canora makes deft and delicious use of butter, seasonal vegetables and hearty meats. He also brings a gimlet eye to colorful, attractive and unfussy plating. In other words, he does a great impression of Tom Colicchio in the early aughts at Gramercy Tavern. That said he finds his own voice even in reworking GT classics like black bass with morels and peas in butter sauce.
2) Danny Meyer at your table: Paul Grieco brings the best of Gramercy service to Hearth, much as Mary Mraz has done at the North Fork Table and Inn. Hallmark emotional intelligence, flawless pacing and deep knowledge of food and wine are all on ample and much appreciated display.
3) Three-ounce wine servings: The short pour lets you play all night in Grieco’s exotic wine harem, but leaves you with only the merest hicky of a hangover the next day: enough to remind you of a great evening, not enough to leave you with any regrets.
4) Wine list I’d take to the beach: Other than Josh Wesson, no one writes and talks about wine with Paul Grieco’s excitement, humor and wit. That Best Cellars’ top tippler was dining at Hearth on my last visit suggests that he and Grieco recognize each other as kindred spirits.
5) Bar stools with amazing kitchen views: For those who like the art and sport of kitchen theater, there are few better places to watch and eat. Smellavision at its best.
Gray and Grizzled Food Fan 
July 11, 2007 at 6:07 pm |
But what’s up with Fitz’s instead of IBC? Even St. Louisans prefer the latter.
July 11, 2007 at 8:01 pm |
Anyone been to the Hearth wine dinners? They seem like a bargain from what I can see in the online menus. I got burned on a Le Du wine dinner at Country–Ramada Inn wedding banquet quality chicken and salmon and soggy sloppy gougeres–and am optimistic that Grieco and Canora might be offering a better experience.
July 30, 2007 at 7:30 pm |
[…] Best and Worst of a Worthy Fixer Upper The name Home is lovely, as simple and evocative as Hearth, and so is much of the food on offer. That said, front and back of house made enough avoidable […]